Tuesday, February 17, 2015

A letter from a young friend

     Walking to the tougher primary school near us where we teach twice a week, Katherine was stopped by one of our students who pointed out that her backpack was covered with ants.  This was after a rough morning with some tummy trouble - a challenge magnified because the latrine is 68 steps away (but the baking heat we've been having has made us grateful sometimes for that distance),  It turned out a bag of peanuts in Katherine's ubiquitous backpack had opened.  (A lady standing nearby in the school courtyard, sheltering from the broiling sun under a tree, urged us not to discard the bag of nuts, saying the ants would make the children enjoy them more!  We threw them away.)
     As she cleaned her pack Katherine was handed the following handwritten letter from a girl (14) whom we had taught in 5th grade last year; the outside of the letter was smudged at the folds, where it had been carried in a pocket, or backpack.  The girl is a refugee in the nearby United Nations refugee camp.  The spelling is hers.
                                                                                                                04 February 2015
Dear Catherine and Mark,
I write this letter to tell you that we will miss you when you go to United States of America.
You have been so kind to us.  You were my bests friends and teachers that mayed me to like you guys.  I would wish to see you again as my teachers.
You have been so kind to us refugees.  You helped us in the examinations.  In the examinations you helped us to study.  That mayed us refugees to love you guys.
I will never forget you Catherine and Mark.  You will be always in my heart.  I wish to see you again.
Your best friend

      Here is a picture of the writer:
When this picture was taken last week she had been at Friday afternoon "church practice," attended solely by the children of the refugee camp, all from central Africa, typically twice a week.  They sing hymns, distinctly different from the Swazi gospel music.  Lead by an insistent drum beat and sometimes a guitar and, this time, line dancing with arms gracefully swaying, the appeal for these teenagers could be similar to American bandstand, from the 50s.  This time a girl was drummer, lower right, but that is an eagerly sought role.  The drums in Africa I've seen are a section of oil barrel with fabric tightly stretched across both ends.  The sticks are . . . sticks.  Their church, to the left in the picture below, was originally and still is sometimes, a warehouse.

Monday, January 26, 2015

Melanie and Musa's wedding reception

          Saturday night we gathered at Swaziland's main live music venue, House on Fire, where the Bushfire music festival occurs each May, and had drinks and then dinner at the really nice restaurant there to celebrate the marriage of a volunteer from the group ahead of ours (she had extended her service for a 3rd year) to a Swazi man who is building manager for construction of a youth facility for an NGO.
 They exchanged vows:

 The PC volunteers had a picture

We had drinks as the long summer evening waned:
They had planned to have the civil wedding part done on Wednesday, but we ran into the bride in town that day;  the necessary government functionaries had not come to work that day.  They got it done on Friday.  When Melanie's service ends this year they will go to the US.  Musa is very fluent in English, which is helpful in his work here.
      After dinner
we got a taxi to the homestead of a volunteer in our group, where she and 4 others of us crashed.  She insisted on sleeping on the floor, giving Katherine and me her bed!  She has a really nice house, with indoor plumbing and a separate kitchen, windows that seal, an insulation layer below the metal roof, and a spacious living room; when our group first gathered after we had been to our sites it was quickly reported that Patty's is the place to crash if you can't get back to your site.   We had bought food on our way to the reception Saturday and we fixed up a fine breakfast in her lovely home.

     School should finally start Tuesday, January 27, after a week delay.  The official reason for the delay was that the "regiments" (men who participate in the "first fruits" ceremony to celebrate the summer, who are organized into military-style units, which are more like fraternal order than a militia) had not finished the last stage of that event - weeding the King's fields, but now we are hearing that the delay may have been because the government lacks funds to open the schools.  Upon return to site Sunday I visited the nearby Refugee Camp and learned that the camp manager lacks funds to pay school fees, and the High School Principal is saying students from the Refugee Camp cannot attend school until the fees are paid.   But I think that face-off between the Principal and the Camp management has occurred at the beginning of every term, so maybe that will be quickly resolved.  It would be nice if the students and all others in education here could start soon to focus solely on education.

Monday, January 19, 2015

Our Summer Vacation Part III: Cape Town and Jozi

       Knowing we would need some fun to look forward to after our return from our oh-so-brief visit with our grandson Matthew and family over Christmas, the Minister of Fun[i] booked 9 days in Cape Town, Stellenbosch (the wine region 2 hours drive north of Cape Town) and Johannesburg, South Africa.
      Cape Town is a city of stunning natural beauty, interesting history and culture,  and European standards of cuisine and infra-structure: comfortable, dependable and safe public transport; clean hotel with running water, clean floors and clean soft towels and cotton sheets; and wi-fi all around!
         We had dinner at sunset on Table Mountain,



toured the Cape of Good Hope Peninsula south of Cape Town  and saw new sea birds, including the African Penguin

and made the obligatory visit to Robben Island, marveling at the hardships Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners stood up under for 18 years and at the nobility and generosity with which he managed to emerge.  We ran into his name, image and legacy throughout South Africa; this country was most fortunate to have him at that critical time, and wise to follow his way.  His successors have been much less inspiring. 
     On our way to Stellenbosch we walked through the magnificent Kirstenbosch Gardens

Its high summer in Cape Town, the hot dry season, so not the best time to see flowers or birds! We were hopeful to see the Cape Sugarbird, but he needs flowering proteas. But magnificent and varied trees, and a majestic location.
      Our private room in a backpackers hostel in Stellenbosch had a lovely balcony
from which we spotted another new bird, a spotted pigeon, featuring a gaudy patch of bright red bare skin all around its eye.  Also lots of mosquitoes,  but that's not a malaria area, and we are both on our meds, because our area of Swaziland does have a little malaria.
       Stellenbosch is the heart of the wine-making area of South Africa, and noted also for its University, previously predominantly Afrikaans, but now more reflecting the diversity of what Archbishop Desmond Tutu calls The Rainbow Nation.  No visit to Stellenbosch would be complete without a wine pilgrimage; ours was with a newly-wed German couple who didn't care for red wines - we did not make that mistake, although the whites were delicious!.
      On returning to Jozi we took the train up to Pretoria, which was kind of forgettable, took a bus tour of Soweto - a vast sprawling varied city of 4 or 5 million people, where the tourists were the only whites, I'm told - and spent an afternoon at the compelling and haunting Apartheid Museum.
      While we were in Cape Town we got a message on the WhatsApp string by which our group of volunteers communicate[ii] that Swazi school openings would be delayed a week, so not till next Tuesday, January 27, to allow those participating in the Swazi traditional Incwala festival celebrating the "first fruits" of summer to complete the final stage: weeding the King's fields.    Seriously.  In a country with 40 to 60% unemployment.  We haven't had regular class time since early November, when classes stopped for administration and then grading of exams, and then many schools closed a week early.  Very different priorities than mine.
     Coming back through Mbabane we stopped by PC HQ for Katherine to catch a Books For Africa planning meeting.  There must have been 8 volunteers in the Volunteer "Lounge" using the free, relatively high speed 'net - no schools, so what else are you going to do?  At one point I asked one from the group that arrived last June, whom I did not know well, if she had seen Katherine after the BFA meeting broke up and started to describe her, forgetting that Katherine had addressed all of the new group at the end of their "Pre-Service Training" about the initial stages of a BFA library application.  The volunteer broke in "Oh I know her, the happy one."  Yup.



[i]   Our positions have reversed in many, many ways in Africa.  For instance, in Denver, Katherine planned all our vacations and I tried to make money.  Katherine has a keen instinct for what might be fun, how things work, and how to get to the beating heart of a new place.  When we got here Katherine threw herself so  completely into the work that she could hardly be troubled with plans for us.  Knowing we both needed to "get out of Dodge" sometimes, I started making our plans for fun things.  With our limited internet availability, that can be arduous. 
     Bet you didn't expect footnotes in a PC Blog.  But, consider the source.
[ii]    WhatsApp doesn't use 'net; and is cheaper, and generally more available for many of us than email, but takes a lot of maintenance and blows up a lot, at least in this environment.

Monday, January 5, 2015

Our Summer Vacation Part 2: Hlane with our protogée John

     We went on Friday, January 2 to Hlane, a nearby game park that we like a lot, with John Koffi, the head boy last year at our local high school, who will now start his “A Level” or “Matric” year (which is pretty standard in the South African system, and I think in the British schools; kind of like a post-graduate year after high school in the US, but much more standard, and required for South African and maybe British and other international colleges and universtities) at a good school in the capital of Swaziland, St. Marks. John's family has just moved out of the nearby Refugee Camp after 2 night-time tent fires resulted in the deaths of 2 children, bringing back the trauma after John's father's store was burned and his 2 brothers murdered precipitating their flight from the Congo 5 years ago. It is now clear the tent fires were set intentionally, apparently hostilities between national groups. It is just as awful as it sounds.
     The upshot is that, after a year when we saw and worked with John nearly every day, we won't see him now very much, and we wanted to go over decisions and issues we could anticipate for the coming months, partly because we are probably going to have to pay for his St. Mark's turition and board. That kind of payment is made here by depositing cash, which will take us some traipsing around, so we wanted those events on our schedule, to the extent we can. And John has some other school possiblitilies cooking, and deadlines to meet.. Also he's fascinated with Africa's natural treasures and had never seen lions. And because, having been with no one who needed my advice for nearly 2 decades, John got the expected list of suggestions, questions and cautions. Handled it well. Seemed attentive. Application essays. Interview techniques. What lies beyond A levels. What the future may hold, and what could derail it.
Enough chatter:

One of the things we like about Hlane is there is a very nice restaurant, with fine impala and wildebeest grill:

John had been on a school trip to a game park in Malawi, where his family stayed 2 years after leaving Congo, but had never seen a lion. Now he has. He took most of the pictures we have of our trip:

     On Thursday we leave for Cape Town (said by all who have lived or visited to be one of the world's great cities) for a week, plus 2 days to further explore JoBurg. Then school.


      I think our last blog on returning from seeing Baby Matthew sounded a little sad. We were. But as we walked up our road, on our way to Hlane, a bright-eyed lively little girl called out “Teachers!” We try to stop when we hear that, or our names, from a child. Turns out she had done really well in 4th grade tests, and she wanted us to know that we will teach her in the new school year. That's why we're still here.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Our Summer Vacation - The Adoration

     We went back to the US for Christmas to see St. Matthew, our 2 ½ month old grandson. A 1 ½ mile walk from our homestead to the main road, 1 hour khumbi to Manzini, 5 hour international khumbi to OR Tambo airport, 9 hour flight to Munich, 9 to Dulles, and there He was, with his mother (our daughter). She had rented a house in Annapolis, Maryland, and her husband, our son and his wife, and my sister joined us. Christmas was a low key affair; good food and good times with family.
Holding that little boy, feeling his little body, seeing him look around and then smile when we drew near. Oh it was so very, very good, and so precious. And good to be with our family. But over in a flash!




     The long trip back was very smooth, but so sad. And then as soon as we arrived we hit phone and computer problems. We seem now to be slowly, arduously getting past them, but it certainly is trying our resolve. And how we miss that darling little boy and his mother. He had changed so much by the time we arrived from the pictures she had sent us, and then even in the 5 days we were with him, we hate to miss the intervening time with him. Our bodies hardly know what time zone they are in. It was nice to be heartily greeted back by our Swaiz family.
      We go Friday to a nearby game park with the excellent student from the refugee camp for whom we have become mentors; he got into the only public high school in the country offering the more advanced “A level” or “matric” courses; we will pay his tuition to that. We hope to spring him from the no-opportunity limbo in which refugees here are trapped.

      Then next week we go to Cape Town for a week, and back to Johannesburg to see the world-renowned Apartheid Museum. Then school starts. Onward.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

2 different weddings

     Last Friday night, the night Katherine returned from working on Books For Africa applications at PC HQ, people started showing up at the homestead after dark. Our suspicion that a funeral was in the offing seemed to be confirmed when people stayed up all night, cooking and talking. They seemed merry, so we assumed the deceased was not close. Around 4 a.m., at the faintest hint of dawn, there was laughter and calling, then loud knocking and demands to wake up in the small hut just behind ours where the youngest brother in the family lives much of the time. When Katherine got up a little later (she really could have used a full night's sleep, but is pretty good now at getting by without) she learned that a traditional Swazi wedding, or really an engagement, was in progress in the kraal (the coral where the families cattle are kept) 200 meters away across the maize field .
Katherine dressed quickly and joined the ladies – men are not invited.
     We had heard a little about traditional “weddings” in training. On a night when the “bride” happens to be at the man's homestead, she is awakened early by the women of the homestead, who take her to the kraal, the symbol and center of the family's wealth, where she is told she is to marry the designated man. A song that I know well from the High School “traditional dancers” is sung, about her leaving her own family now and married life being difficult and painful and leading then to death; traditionally the intended would wail and cry. These days we are are told the bride generally has a sense of what is coming up, although she might not know the exact day; this bride knew the very day. Interestingly, the traditional wedding is not terribly common now, and the family of the “groom” said they had never been to a traditional wedding before; the neighbors, who are much more imbued with the tradition, did most of it. A sister of the groom explained that the Swazi Constitution forbids compelling the bride. ( I'm interested how frequently Swazis refer to protections in their Constitution; many of them know it well, but are also aware of some deviations in practice.) No friends or family of the bride were present; this was an event of the neighbors, assisting the groom's family.
       The groom told me that he would also do a “civil” wedding “signing the paper” before a government official, and he said that would have to be done by June. He also needs to negotiate the “lobola” (cows paid to the brides family, essentially dowry). The bride is a “double orphan” (both parents dead; single” and “double” orphan are useful concepts because children who have lost even one parent suffer similar diminution in health, education, and job prospects as with “double orphans.”), so the lobola is paid to the oldest brother; if you think of lobola as compensation for the cost of raising and educating the bride, I'm not sure older brothers are always entitled to much, but the concept is to compensate the bride's family for the transfer to the groom's family.
       The traditional wedding suggests roots in a less orderly past. It is easy to imagine a young woman being seized without her consent and taken to a man's homestead, then being introduced to the women of the homestead the next morning at the kraal, where she would see her new family's wealth, and the bride's family shortly being bought off, literally, with the promise of a payment of cows. The going price, paid even now, for healthy brides, is from 11 to 18 cows, but we understand there is a fixed lobola for a daughter of the king, of 115 cows. Since a young man's desires can often outrun his wallet, it is not unusual for lobola to be paid years, frequently decades, after the engagement, as the man saves up enough to provide the agreed number of cattle.
       This is a very Christian country, but the traditional wedding has nothing religious about it: no prayers, no hymns – that's all for the “white” wedding, which is in a church.
       I learned from the bride that her husband chose the traditional wedding because it costs less than a “white wedding” (in a church). But a traditional wedding allows polygamy. The bride told me she insisted that her husband promise no more wives unless she dies or they are divorced; polygamy would be illegal after a civil wedding. I hope that civil ceremony does occur, but even then, he has not appeared to have difficulty finding girl-friends. The husband has had 3 jobs since we've been here, none for more than a few months. His sisters agree he has a drinking problem. His lifestyle would make it very hard to have avoided HIV. This bride has a sense of her market value and, like a Jane Austin heroine, I guess she negotiated the best deal her circumstances permit; there was no one looking out for her. The 2 are very sweet together, and she is very good with his daughter.
       We like her a lot – she is smart, has pretty good English, is willing to try to be understood, and is fun.; I hope this works out well for her.
       The bride was a domestic worker here from around April to August, but left suddenly. She has 2 children; having one child makes a woman more marketable as a bride, because it shows she is fertile. Having more than one can be a negative.
        The “groom” was living, when we arrived here, with a smart, pretty, strong-minded woman who had a good job as a clerk at the nearby airport construction. Their 2-year-old was also here, but their relationship was already rocky when we arrived, and ended when she reported to the police that he had stolen some of her money, and a police car showed up on the homestead one night. Our Babe ( the father on the homestead, pronounced bäbā,) is a pastor, a member of the local “inner council” (kind of like country commissioners, but the position is either inherited or appointed), and an important member of the community; he must have been deeply embarrassed. The mother visited her 2 year old a few times after she left, but a child always belongs to the father's family, and we soon stopped seeing the mother. Likewise, the two children of today's bride live with her husband's mother who does not allow their mother to see them. The bride told me bringing them here would not work – they would always be blamed and criticized and treated badly.
      The groom had purchased a goat, which was slaughtered.


When you slaughter a goat, the first thing you do after cutting it's throat, letting the wriggling settle down, and hanging the carcass from a limb, is to cut off the penis, scrotum, and testicles, and set them on a limb.


I asked if there was any symbolism to that, because in some cultures those parts of some animals have significance, but it seems not here – it would just be in the way of cleanly slicing out the insides, I guess, and besides, who wants those parts still attached to their goatskin?
     While a meal was prepared the women built a fire on the road from the kraal and had tea.


After a while the women approached the homestead from the kraal.

They started throwing stones at us, because the men then had to go away, perhaps because the bride is still topless; she was very self-conscious about that, all day, until she was ceremonially dressed in married women's clothes: long dress, head scarf and scarf covering her shoulders. Fortunately the older brother on the homestead, with whom I was sitting, knew of traditional expectations, and he and I scurried off to our huts amid much laughter – those neighbor women had good aim! The women presented some symbolic gifts to the groom's family and jesting “negotiations” occurred, along the lines of “Where is the cow?” and “What color cow do you want?” Much laughter and good humor. But you could see the origins in a scared young girl being brought into a new homestead by the women, with the men excluded for that stage. The stories we hear suggest that often little care is taken for the young girl's sensibilities, as she is promptly put to work in all kinds of ways – the groom's family is going to have to pay for her, and want their money's worth!
       Katherine observed that this girl is going from paid domestic worker to unpaid daughter-in-law, but she has gained membership in a family, and my sense is the older generation in this homestead, especially the 2 oldest women, would try to treat her fairly.
        We had seen the final step in a traditional wedding when we first arrived at site and went with the family just across the border into South Africa to see the final lobola payment by the “groom” now in his 50s, the soonest he had accumulated enough to pay what he owed; the grandchildren of that marriage assisted at the wedding. That ceremony is intended to symbolize the joining of the families; the expectation and final accomplishment of that would be a useful step where such important property has been exchanged, perhaps initially somewhat abruptly. See (if you haven't already had quite enough of this) our September 12, 2013 blog..
     In the negotiations at the front door of the main house of the homestead the women of the household gave the new daughter-in-law advice, such as to be patient, and they then painted her forehead with ochre,

(Katherine took this picture – I was still excluded) had her suck the gall bladder of the goat (which tasted as you'd expect, I understood from her later), and symbolically tied around her right wrist the skin from the goat's forehead as a symbolic ring, which was only to be removed when she returned to her own home, which she would do the next day. I sat next to her when we ate, and could smell her “ring”; she was embarrassed by that and said she'd cover it that night, because of the smell.

That's the “ring” on her right wrist.
        After a while we assembled in a small room near the cooking shed and enjoyed the feast, as shown above. It was just the neighbor ladies, Katherine and me (I'm not sure men were to be included then, but they invited me; some rules apply less strictly to outsiders, I suspect. None of the groom's family joined them) I declined an offering from the pot where the goat insides had been cooked. One piece of the “flesh” was pretty good, I think from the back somewhere; I passed off the other piece to the neighbor girl (one of our students) sitting beside me – the piece had too much identifiable skin on it; ignoring my subterfuge I was complimented for cleaning my plate. Katherine was sure everyone wanted to see pictures of our grandson Matthew.



       As it happened, a “white wedding” was also staging from our homestead the same morning, because our Babe was performing this wedding for one of his parishioners at the church at the nearby School for the Deaf. The bride, bridesmaids, and flower girls bathed, dressed, and fidgetted at our homestead . That is our Babe with them, in the dark suit.

And they then drove off in fancy clean decorated cars.




          One lesson this experience keeps teaching me is the futility of prediction. Preparation is important, but then the unexpected invariably intervenes.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Exam period and the holidays

      After a really busy, sometimes frantic, October, our schedule dropped off a cliff to practically nothing in November. In October we were teaching 7 classes a week, 240 students, and we also had 1 or 2 tutoring sessions most days. But exams started early in November, so no classes met, and once classes finished the students were still required to come to school (although many didn't, presumably because the free lunch was not worth the transport cost and effort) while the teachers marked their papers. This sounded to us like the perfect opportunity for some large and small group activities, so we studied some programs recommended by the Peace Corps and also selected the two books in the High School library with multiple copies for 2 “book clubs” we wanted to start.
      But we had far less success than we expected. We had bad luck – rain and a competing NGO demonstration on male circumcision (important here) just as we tried to get started, but mostly it was hard to get the students interested in much that looked like work. We gave up on the large group, and had some successes with the book clubs. In each, at least one student read way ahead and finished within days. And sometimes the discussions were very thoughtful and deep. But we always had to go round up the students, and we found fewer and fewer. And this is the last week they will be in school, so we have little planned except our own travels and projects and planning for next term, until school starts January 20, 2015.

      The Rural Health Motivators are one of the most successful health measures in this country. 6 women selected by the community are well-trained and then continually circulate among about 20 – 40 homesteads assigned to each of them advising on health, hygiene, nutrition and related matters. They were Katherine's introduction to the community; they love her. 3 of them asked Katherine to teach them English. Actually, their English is already much better than our siSwati, and they do not need English either to improve their understanding of their work nor to communicate with their neighboring homesteads. I think it's just a matter of pride; maybe keeping up with the grandchildren. Each of the women arrived with a new notepad on which to take notes – no small expense for them. We taped a portable “white board” on the back of a door, shown here,
and when we came for the second session we replaced it with a homework poster of 20 words for parts of the body. I think they were delighted to have this vocabulary to study.
       Most of the volunteers in our group (now the veterans) and also the new group ( who are now through “Integration Period” and settling in, some more smoothly than others) assembled at the Country Director's house for Thanksgiving. It was so good to be with our friends for this family holiday, and the food was delicious.
Next year, in Denver. The US Ambassador gave us a ride to the bus rank; we talked about why Swaziland did so little to retain eligibility under the African Growth Opportunity Act; losing that tariff-free importation privilege is a self-inflicted disaster for this sad country. The Ambassador is a splendid diplomat and an atrocious driver, and in this country, there is much competition in the latter category.
    We stayed Thursday and Friday nights at a backpackers we like, splurging on 2 nights in a private room with its own shower and toilet – right there in the room! Ahhhh. No flies, spiders, cockroaches or snakes! Cost an extra US$4 per person per night - US$15 each.  Worth it, kakhulu (big time!) Thursday night Katherine worked with one of the other volunteers on the Books for Africa Committee preparing to review applications for libraries.
     Friday we climbed a fine local feature evocatively named Executioner's Rock.  The approach was really long, but we had great luck with rides.  Less so on the way back.  Long day.

     Katherine has now gone to PC HQ in Mbabane to review Books For Africa library applications, which were due December 1, and she's also been asked to help a new staff member organize the PC resource library. So I'm on my own here. Being very brave.

     The Country Director asked Katherine to speak with a USA Today reporter about being an older PC volunteer. Here's the link to the article: http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/11/26/peace-corps-older-50-volunteer-age/19278429/